Ten days in the Scottish Highlands.
The Highlands of Scotland has been somewhere that I had been longing to explore for a long, long time and it was even better than I could have imagined. (Don’t judge, but I am an avid Outlander book nerd and so I had been dreaming about this landscape and the culture - and Jamie - forever!) This was our first trip to the highlands in 2020 and it was actually a mini-honeymoon after a whirlwind marriage ceremony during the height of Covid in London!
Accommodation:
We split our trip into two parts: we spent four nights in a cute little shepherds hut on the shore of a loch, about halfway between the Isle of Skye and the Applecross Peninsula. This place is up there with one of the top places I have ever stayed - it was absolutely incredible.
We then spent the next five nights in another wee loch-side cabin just outside of Fort William. After the first stay, the second cabin wasn’t quite as cute, but I am being v fussy because we had a roaring fire and stunning views of the loch. Plus, it was a really good base for exploring Glencoe and the surrounding areas.
Isle of Skye
This isle is really amazing, and definitely a place that you hear a lot about - with good reason. In my opinion, there are other parts of Scotland that are more beautiful and untouched but I would 100% recommend a couple of days here to explore and go for some beautiful walks. When we were here I was experiencing some side-effects from my chemo (one of which is joint swelling and pain so I couldn’t walk) but we managed to get out and about and I hobbled around some incredibly beautiful places. I would recommend making the trip to visit the following places:
Old Man of Storr: seriously cool, finger-like rock formations jutting out of a rocky cliff-face. We had read about a great walk here which unfortunately I couldn’t manage, but even the views from the road are breathtaking.
Kilt Rock: We saw this after some pretty heavy rainfall and so it was a huge, violent waterfall cascading over a steep cliff straight into the ocean below.
The Fairy Glen: I don’t want to get all freaky with you but you can almost feel the magical, otherworldly vibes here. The landscape is so varied, jutting stone pinnacles and rolling green cliffs, surrounded by an ancient woodland on one side. There is even the crumbling remains of an old fort. The stone circle is actually a sham (but it’s probably a lot of what you have seen on Instagram) and the locals try really hard to keep this from happening, so please don’t add any rocks to the circles.
Sligachan Old Bridge: Really amazing views of the Cuillin Mountain Range from here, as well as the stunning old stone bridge.
Fairy Pools: This one probably needs no introduction because it’s so famous! Beautiful cascading pools and waterfalls travelling all the way down from the mountains and along the valley. Make sure you walk right up to the end of the path and take it all in.
Eilean Donan Castle: Whilst not on the Isle of Skye, I have included it on this list because you will most likely drive past the castle on your way to Skye or otherwise it’s a short drive away if you are staying on Skye. This is probably one of Scotland’s most recognisable and popular castles, which was built in the early 13th century. If you want a great vantage point of the castle from afar, continue over the bridge past the castle entrance and turn left into the community centre - you can then walk along the loch shore and take some great photos.
Glencoe and Glen Etive
Where to start? Since this trip, we have driven through Glencoe two more times, and each time it only seems to get more and more beautiful. It has definitely stolen a piece of my heart.
Glencoe is a valley in the highlands south of Fort William. It is majestic and my photos will show the beauty of the place much better than I can try to describe it. Plus, keep an eye for the iconic white house along the way - there are actually two that I found and both were equally as cute!
If you have time (please, make the time if you can!) you should drive the valley in both directions too - and, if you’re really keen like us, do it in Autumn and Spring.
Glen Etive is another stunning valley which comes off Glencoe and follows the River Etive. This is also where that famous shot from the James Bond Skyfall movie is (the one with M, Bond and the vintage car). Blink and you’ll miss the small sign for the turn-off, so keep your eyes peeled. Drive right down to the end and you will come to the tranquil Loch Etive and drive past the impressive Glen Etive Estate.
If you follow the road from Glencoe down towards the A85, there are still impressive views to be seen and you will also come across Kilchurn Castle. This is a ruin from the mid-1400s and was the base for Clan Campbell for 150 years until it was taken in the first Jacobite rising.
Drive a little bit further and you will also come to St Conan’s Kirk on Loch Awe which is architecturally stunning.
Applecross Peninsula
This is basically an amazing drive around the whole peninsula - it is quintessential Scotland in my opinion. Full of amazing sweeping views, rugged coast and Highland cows, with some delicious smoked salmon and seafood too! A few highlights were:
Bealach na Ba (The Pass of the Cattle): This is a seriously steep and windy road between two sheer cliff faces (and not for the faint hearted!). I loved it! I think my jaw was on the floor the whole time and I barely took any photos because I was taking it all in. The Applecross Peninsula does not recommend big campervans or RVs on the road and you can understand why when you drive this part - mind you, we saw a fair few who weren’t put off!
Applecross Smokehouse: If you like smoked salmon (hot and cold smoked) then make sure to stop here and stock up - yum!
Kishorn Seafood Bar: Just before you join the Applecross Peninsula road you will pass this amazing seafood restaurant. It’s super casual and they serve until the sell out. Think local fish and sustainably caught shellfish such as prawns, scallops and lobster. Side note - it’s only open from March to October.
Glenfinnan Viaduct
Harry Potter fans rejoice! This is the iconic train and viaduct shot used for the Hogwarts Express, and man, it is SO cool. The train goes past at 10:45 and 3:00pm - but it’s quite often delayed. I was over-excited and made us get up super early to get there at 10:00am but it was worth the wait.
Park in the visitor carpark (this was free when we were there but I think it is generally a paid carpark) and then walk along the road over a small bridge. Turn right and follow a gravel road/path all the way towards the viaduct - which is spectacular in itself! There is a well marked path to the left which takes you up the hill to the view point where you will see the viaduct in all it’s glory and can wait for the steam train to pass by happily.
After your Harry Potter dreams have come true, it’s also well worth checking out the Glenfinnan Monument on the shore of Loch Shiel. This is a tribute to the people who died fighting for the 1945 Jacobite rising. This was the spot where over 1000 highlanders pledged their allegiance to ‘Bonnie Prince Charlie’ or the ‘Young Pretender’ and began the fight for a Stuart king on the British throne. If you know anything about what happened over the next few years during the rising then this will be a very moving place to see. The Rising failed and after the final battle at Culloden, the Highland clans were essentially destroyed by the British, with clans being dismantled, homes burned and any supporters who survived were either killed or imprisoned. It is a harrowing, albeit fascinating, part of Scottish history.
